Thursday, April 3, 2008

bongia! (good afternoon)

Im in Portugal now. Peniche to be more exact. I really cant believe how beautiful it is here. I get up, surf, lay on the beach eating lunch, go out for another surf, sit on the beach, later eat an amazing authentic Portugese dinner and look at the sky.

So tomorrow I am going to be getting the most amazing full body massage with the sun on my back and the sea in the background. uhm yea... amazing. I really cant believe how nice it is here.

so I stood up on the surf board on the first day which would be Tuesday. my instructor Billy told me I learn fast. He's the nicest guy. you'd totally like him. I have had the most fun surfing. I love it. its tiring though. i am way too weak so it takes my whole body. but other then that I love it. The water doesnt even both me really. Seaweed gets in my hair which is annoying but not being able to touch and drinking more salt water then the ocean hasnt really bothered me. Its probably because Im floating on the surf board. I am definitely going to have to live in a place where I can go surfing everyday. like california. i love it. I especially like it because its warm when I get out. In wales my hands are so numb I cant take off my wetsuite. Im bout to show up everybody there at the school. especially some people who think they can surf. Im not ready for the norshore or anything. lol. nah... I've moved from thh white water to the green. maybe waves about a meter high which are huge to me. Its a pounding though when you nose dive into the water. salt goes down your nose into your throat and into your eyes. but no pain no gain.

Its been especially great hanging out and meeting all of the people here. They are so nice. surfing has been

Last night I had squid for the first time and wild boar. food here is incredibly cheap its insane. The food is great though I really didnt like how the squid was cooked and the wild boar was just weird tasting. It was good to try though. Especially because the sea is right here so its caught and cooked here. its so nice eating a 5 star meal for pennies.

Okay off for some kind of Brazilian dinner. hope all is well.

I head to Florence soon. I'm pretty tired of all this travel and really want to go back to wales for some stability. this will all come soon.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Squid . . . eh. You can get squid around here. Wild boar? I'm proud of you! I would like to try that some time.
And, way to stick with the surfing even though it isn't always easy. I would love to be there to watch you surf. That would be so fun. You know me: I'd be on the beach on a towel in the sun. Thank goodness surfing is such a spectator's sport.lol
Glad you made it back safely! It was nice talking to you, even though the connection wasn't the greatest.
Miss you! And, whatever you do, don't you dare eat any Ethiopian food. Me and Rachelle are holding out until you get back.
Your #1 Fan